It’s 6.30 in the Morning and as you awake, you see the Ship inching towards the port of Wrangell. Wrangell is a 27 miles long tiny city of Alaska reputed to have friendly population albeit less than 2500. This is the third stop of ‘Seabourn Sojourn’ after Ketchikan and Misty Fjords, as mentioned in Part 1.
It seems to be a clear day. However, weather in Alaska is notoriously unpredictable. At 8.30 am, as you prepare to leave, the ominousness of weather begins to shows. The light drizzle therefore compels you to take along your Rain proof Seabourn Jacket. Immediately thereafter, you proceed to board the 10 seater speed-boat for the day’s excursion to “Anan’s Tongass National Forest”.
Mark, the captain of the boat supporting notable grey stubble, welcomes you on-board with an unmistakable English accent. Soon we are on a 35 miles whizzing voyage towards South of Wrangell.
In the ensuing one hour, you pass through some exciting picturesque tiny islets and hills filled with tall Red-Yellow Ceaters, Western Himlocks and Sitka Spruce trees.
Just then, Mark suddenly slows his boat near one such islet. He then points towards the beautiful set of seagulls perched on its one side and group of harbor seals resting over the other. After few clicks, cruising continues at the speed of 45 nautical miles/hour until you reach the foothills of Anan Forest.
Sea Gulls on the island
Harbour seals
‘Mark’ and ‘Drew’, his associate, now double-up as guides and take you through the scenic ¾ mile trail amidst various species of vascular plants like lichens, mosses and ferns.
Bald Eagles on the way make for some excellent pictures. At the end of the trail is a sizable wooden platform with a covered viewing structure over it called “Anan Wild Life Observatory”.
Anan Wild Life Observatory
Stationed critically over the Anan River you can see the River, replete with Silver Salmons, flowing right below. This place unsurprisingly is therefore an favorite hunting ground for Salmon gourmets like Black Bears, Bald Eagles and Sea Gulls. The cache here is so abundant that invariably every predator returns satiated
Meanwhile, Bulky Black Bears keep coming in from every direction to mercilessly pick up a meaty salmon and walk back nonchalantly with struggling salmon clinched in their unforgiving Jaws.
Next two hours you spend watching some Bald eagles, their attractive juveniles, snowy Seagulls. Nature’s ceaseless drama of the hunter and the hunted gets increasingly pronounced as Eagles and Sea-Gulls too jostle for their share. Poor hapless Salmons!!
There is no dearth of getting exclusive pictures of this pitiless play. On way back you see cute brown-grey color “Merganzer Fish Ducks” standing on an uprooted tree lying over the Anan River. No sooner you get closer to them, they quickly jump one after the other into the water and swim away, almost teasingly.
Back to Wrangell, you use the spare time prudently by strolling along the ‘Front Street’ of the Town. Visit the acclaimed Museum and learn about the fascinating 1000 year history of Wrangell and its affable inhabitants.
Sitka
On the 6th day, ‘Sitka’ is where Sojourn parks itself. It is the fourth halt of this thrilling voyage.
After quick breakfast at the Colonnade on deck 8 you reach Gangway on deck 5 and from there to the pier. You are now ready to board the 50 seated double Decker Catamaran ‘St. Tatiana’ for a three hour excursion on an exciting “Sea Otter & Wild Life Quest”.
Tatiana’s lower deck has complete sitting arrangement with a small cafeteria at its rear. On each seat is placed a binocular for better viewing. On the upper deck, more than half of its area is open to sky, facilitating those with cameras to take unhindered pictures.
Michel, the environmentalist on board, exhorts everyone to keep their eyes riveted to watch for Sea Otters, Hump-Back Whales, Harbor Seals or Bald Eagles.
Soon on one of the islets on the way, you see a solo ‘Black Tailed Deer’ wandering. Then after a while, as you get in the deeper part of the Pacific, you see a sizable bunch of distinctly colored Sea-Otters floating in a group. The catamaran slows and begins to circle around these fascinating creatures enabling a closer view and opportunity for shutterbugs to take their pictures.
Black tail deer
Sea Otter in water
Hump-Back Whales
Further still, you enter the area where ‘Hump-Back Whales’ could be spotted. Within minutes you are enthralled watching a large Grey Whale, swimming with its curved body moving up and down the Ocean’s surface. In its characteristic manner, she periodically blew tall fountain of water into the air.
After few such motions, it dives down with its ‘tail up’. “Fluke” or “Tail Up”, as it is called, signals that this whale has now dived deep into the water and is not likely to surface soon. (Whales can capably hold breath for up to 15-20 minutes in Water).
A little ahead, there’s yet another of this phenomenal animal. Then there’s another and then a pair of them swim side by side making the spectacle incredibly captivating.
At the end of this gripping tour, the catamaran drops you at the port located in the heart of Sitka. You can avail the free bus service from here to drop you to the commercial port, place where the Cruise Ship is anchored.
However, with time in hand, one can walk around the town looking at shopping stores, restaurants, a church, school, Bishop’s house (that’s now converted in to a museum) and some beautifully colored condominiums.
Back to the Ship, it’s 4.30pm. Sojourn slowly turns towards its next station -‘Tracy Arm/Endicott Arm Fjords’.
Tracy Arm/Endicott Arm Fjords
On the seventh day, passing through the dramatic narrow Fjords at Stephens Passage and carefully maneuvering between hills and gleaming blue icebergs of Endicott Arm, Sojourn parks itself amidst icebergs just at a short distance away from the imposing Sawyer/Dawes Glaciers. The amazing manifestation of Nature in such profound form is absolutely mesmerizing and inexpressible in words.
‘Tracy Arm/Endicott Arm Fjords’ is an ice carved wonderland, created by the melting and retreating of glaciers over thousands of years. This pristine place, an epitome of serenity in wilderness can be termed as one of the most rewarding and humbling experience of this journey. You pat yourself for having judiciously chosen this voyage that enabled you to witness such incredibly captivating sites.
Post breakfast, a 100 seater catamaran wading gently over the jade color Sea, maneuvering between awe-inspiring icebergs takes you further closer to the gleaming blue Dawes Glaciers.
On this very short journey you first pass from close to a plunging waterfall. Then on the way you see a group of beautiful sea lions, each with distinctly conspicuous colorful fur. They are resting atop recently carved scintillating blue-white iceberg. As the catamaran passes close to these beautiful creatures, they look at you with intrigue as you point your camera lens towards them.
The Catamaran now positions itself just few meters away from this dramatic huge Glacier. You wait in anticipation to capture the fleeting moment in case a piece of ice separates from the Glacier and falls into the water. But sadly it does not happen. After about 45 minutes the catamaran steers itself towards the other side of the bay.
A few more picturesque waterfalls, a few more breath-taking ice-bergs, Glaciers atop mountains, a few more attractive sea lions, an attractive Tortoise shaped Island and you are back on your ship.
Couple of large pegs of Rum serves as effective antidote for the shivering cold. Continental lunch followed by an alluring presentation on deck 5 on the ‘Trip to Antarctica’, you are back in your Cabin for a welcome siesta.
Sharp at 5 pm, Sojourn resumes its journey moving cautiously out of the Fjords and back in the ocean towards – Haines.
Haines
At Haines the weather is abnormally windy. The ferocity of the wind prods the organizers to cancel the day’s excursion – “Scenic Railway to Skagway”. Many of us who had booked on this excursion feel indignant and utterly disappointed. This train journey would have taken us through some beautiful picturesque rugged terrains of Alaska.
But never mind, the next halt is at the capital of Alaska – Juneau. Here the authentic Dog Sled ride over the snow covered Norris Glaciers is awaited, albeit with folded hands for mercy to the Weather Gods.
Anonymous
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Anonymous
Man this is original style of your but reflects the lucidity of Ernest Hemingway and descriptive narrative of Thomas hardy. Keep writing.
Bhupender
Thankyou ji
Susy
Outstanding…..
Savvy
This all seems soo dreamy and magical !!! So fairy taleish !!! ( spare the grammar) the cruise , glaciers, simplicity and sophestication !!!! Just love!!!!!
Lex
Went through your 1st part…👌👌
I was waiting for this post and oh, it was so worth the wait!!! You have practically traveled to the edge of the world! I couldn’t help but open Maps and check exactly the places you’re talking about, because I don’t know anything about Alaska at all! It definitely looks like a surreal experience. And the photos!! Wow……..It was like travelling with you virtually….
Laura
Wow…. that is so wondetful ….the bears, the glaciers, the bald eagles, sea lions are so cutee 😍especially the shot where 1 sea lion is climbing on the iceberg…..fantastic !!!!!
Rachel
Beautiful photos and I would love to one day do a cruise. I would love to see Alaska one day.
Stephane
Just stunning, never thought of an Alaskian cruise but you have pretty much sold it !!
Tiara
Oh my god these photos are absolutely INSANE! Would love to do a cruise like this myself, will have to tell my boyfriend about it 🙂
Sam
Wonderful place and photographs