Despite advice to the contrarian by well-wishers, you decide to visit Srinagar in strife. Reports were nevertheless inundated of clashes between the Kashmiris (call then Separatist, Militants or ordinary Kashmiris) and the security forces (Military, CRPF or Kashmir Police). But the voice within you mysteriously keeps assuring : “They will not harm a Tourist”. So trusting your instincts, you book yourself on the airplane – June 2017, Destination ‘Srinagar’.
Adil, a young taxi driver waits at the airport to drive you in his Innova to the pre-booked ‘Gurkha’ House Boat situated on Lake Nigel in Srinagar.
So, passing through the deserted roads, you see closed shops, (the separatists had ordered Kashmir Band on that day post killings of three of their members a day before) and then while crossing the famous Dal Lake, the tension on people’s faces too is palpable. It takes a little over 45 minutes to reach one end of the bank of the legendary Nigel Lake.
Shikara is the only mode of transport to reach to the other end where your House boat stands. There are few dozen others house-boats too that stand silently floating besides one another. Practically empty, they wait in anticipation of the elusive guest.
Smiling Faroque, the owner cum boatman, picks your bag and with alacrity places it on his traditionally decorated Shikara and moves.
House Boat No ‘5’
After 15 minutes of smooth rowing over calm & serene lake nestled among appealing mountains (snow peaked with slopes full of Chinar trees) the Shikara parks itself at the bottom ladder of this incredibly Beautiful Gurkha House Boat No ‘5’.
Only a stone hearten could turn them off with curt. So you indulge. Discounts are galore. Iffaque informs softly, that such offering of discounts is uncharacteristic of these seemingly desperate sellers. Reason : Tourism had literally dried up due to the fear arising out of prevailing unrest and violence in the valley.
So, after purchase of few shawls and stoles and with the sun refusing to set, Shikara stroll was the best to go for. At Rs. 500/- per hour it seemed to be the most prudent way to comprehend the beauty of this beautiful lake and its surroundings.
Accordingly, Faroque is summoned. He then slowly rows his Shikara over the calm Nigel. Rows of ripples emanating from his row, simmer magnificently in the setting Sun making the entire scene look incredibly outstanding.
You then pass through some fascinating floating vegetable gardens. Stream of ducklings are swimming fearlessly oblivious of the underlying tension in the valley. You now are close to a impressive wooden bridge that not only helps villagers to cross over from one place to another but also facilitates smart youths to put in their fishing rods to best use, plausibly for a tasty fishy meal later.
As the enthralling stroll over the lake ends, the Sun too prepares bid bye for the day. It was now time for some good wine followed by a quintessential Kashmiri dine.
However as you plan to retire for the day, the sound of crackers bursting came from all sides and corners are heard. I asked Iffaque the reason. He says, Pakistan had defeated India to win the Cricket final. This makes you sad. You wonder what was making these Kashmiris turn their back towards India. You pray and hope for some resolution on Kashmir to take place, to help it return back to its original glory.
Finally, you leave Srinagar with a sense of ambivalence. The joy of beauty on one hand and sadness of strife on the other. ‘Beautiful Kashmir’ seemingly has become an oxymoron. And it is so ironic.
Anonymous
0.5
Aarti
Well written article underlined the beauty along with underlying tension without losing the essence of Srinagar -Kashmir
admin
Thankyou Aarti for your comments.
Anonymous
4
Nitin
Well defined narration bringing forth the beauty of srinagar while subtly expressing the uncalled violence vortex and its political turmoil. The words sail through the mind displaying the serenity of a natural profile of a city that still attracts because of scenic beauty.
admin
Thankyou for your lovely comments. Truly inspiring to write more.
admin
3.5
Saina
Commendable article on Kashmir
admin
Thank you
SurinDer mahindroo
Well narrated beauty of the region along with the desperation of residents to meet both ends meet due to the political turmoil in the region.
Well presented article.
admin
Thanks jee
Anonymous
2
Krishnamurthy
Lovely article. Truly outstanding.
Bhupender
Thankyou
Laxmi
I asked Iffaque. He said Pakistan had defeated India to win the Cricket final. I was sad. Wondered what was making these Kashmiris to turn their back towards India. Hope there is some resolution and Kashmir returns back to its original glory, sooner than later.
Heart touching line’s.
Bhupender
Thnx
Anonymous
5
Anonymous
3.5
Anonymous
3
Rafiq ahmed
I enjoyed this post & photograph – I spent a few summer holidays there as a child and have fond memories of rowing a boat on the lake.
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