A wave of apprehension strikes you as Adil, tugs your luggage into his car early morning of mid-June, 2017. We are to leave Srinagar for Pahalgam, a place presently in the throes of militancy. Pahalgam situated within Anantnag District is in South Kashmir and unfortunately infamous for an unprecedented insurgency and bloody militant activity. So as Adil inserts the car key into ignition, journey into hitherto fabled dangerous territory commences.
Passing through Pampore, the city on the outskirts of Srinagar, you are welcomed by an eerie scenario. As the car accelerates through the empty roads, shops with shut shutters down are ubiquitous. The security forces are systematically scattered. Surely something is seriously amiss.
Soon you learn that a terrorist from this area is been eliminated by the security forces a couple of days ago; hence a preventive measure for a possible backlash.
Silence ensues thereafter until you reach National Highway No 1. Signs of traffic here give a sigh of relief. Then, crossing ‘Sangam’, place renowned for its Kashmiri Chinar yellow teak, wood extensively used for manufacturing best Cricketing bats, an interesting anecdote associated with this place comes to light.
Thespian Raj Kapoor once serenaded the gorgeous Vaijantimala in his 1964 Magnum Opus ‘Sangam’ with famous song lyrics “Bol Radha Bol Sangam Hoga Ke Nahi”. Following which, as tribute, the locals rechristened this place as ‘Sangam’.
‘Sangam’ incidentally is also the place of confluence (sangam) of two Rivers, Ranbi Ara & Veshaw before they merge into the massive Jhelum.
Later while passing through Avintapura, situated between Anantnag & Srinagar, Adil calls up someone from his mobile to check if all is fine.
Reason : 10 Kms to the left of NH1 is a place called ‘Tral’. This is the same place in ‘Pulwama’ Disrtict from where the slain separatist Burhanwani of Hizbul Mujahideen hailed. Unquestioningly an area is now prone to violence thus necessitating the call.
Your thoughts almost instantly flow back to July 2016 and aftermath, when Whani’s elimination brought Kashmir into throes of unprecedented turbulence. Allying my fear, Adil responded – “ Dont worry, they don’t harm the Tourists”.
40 Kms from Pulwama is Palgham. The Hilly terrain in between restrains the speed and thus elongates your travel time. However, the stunningly scenic landscapes throughout this way more than compensates the delay.
Then you see a well-constructed helipad on the outskirts that is used to fly pilgrims to & fro from the Holy Amarnath Shrine Cave. Whereas, for pilgrims desiring to visit the Shiva Lingam by foot or by using a pony, there is a Base camp few hundred meters ahead. The pilgrims can take a halt/rest here before commencing the arduous 48 Kms trek.
A return Journey from the Holy Shrine Cave takes nearly 3 days. Alternatively, drive 15 Kms up to Chandanwadi from where it takes 2 days to & fro.
So, after a near 5 hours of drive, covering approx. 150 Kms, you reach the picturesque Hotel ‘Heevan’. This beautiful hotel, perched alongside the cascading river ‘Lidder’ is created from the melting Glaciers.
With snow peaked mountains standing at a distance in sentinel make this whole place look almost magical. After dropping you at the Hotel, Adil leaves. (Non-local vehicles are not permitted to take Tourists in and around Pahalgam.)
Despite being the otherwise peak period, the abysmal low occupancy in this prestigious hotel unarguably reflects the fear & insecurity housed in the minds of tourists, thereby keeping them away from this idyllic place.
Meanwhile, even before you could check in, a couple of desperate looking pony owners approach you pleading to take a ride on their pony. “No tourists so no business since last fortnight” said one ruefully.
Then, from the hotel room, you remain riveted to the stunning serene view outside. The cascading river just below and snow capped hills beyond, compel you to imagine how close ‘Heeven’ is to ‘Heaven’.
To get a closer feel of this hypnotic divinity, you come out to undertake a 5 Kms pony ride up hill. The prices are listed. So without bargaining, you hire one pony. Delighted Pony owner ensures that you are seated comfortable on his pony. He then helps you by holding your camera and putting it around his neck. And there we go.
No sooner did the Horse turn left, leaving the main road, it ventured into a long narrow slushy stone & mud track that went steeply up the forested hill. Adventurous ?? Seemed so.
Then, as you pass through the woods lined with huge pine & deodar trees, there comes a point called Pahalgam Valley. From here you get to have a fascinating view of the Valley, the endless snaky contours of the flowing Lidder River are amazing. Click, click goes your camera before you move further.
A little ahead, you reach a place scattered with few tiny shanties called Dabian. These shanties are supposedly the homes of the local tribe, the Gujjars.
But it was only when you reach Baisaran, more famously known as “Mini Switzerland” that one is awe struck by its magnificence. Baisaran is a large grassy meadow surrounded by thickly wooded pine forest with captivating snow-capped mountains standing behind as if guarding this exceptional lushly scenic beauty. The splendor of Baisaran is simply breathtaking & the sense of peace, absolutely absolute.
Rs 10 is the fees to enter this divine place. As you sip some hot coffee purchased from a makeshift tea stall here,you remain mesmerized and riveted to the overwhelming grandeur of the place. Just then the rain gods decide to pour.
The stall owner, almost instantaneously conjures up a set of thin plastic raincoats and puts them up for sale. Cost 250/-. with little other option you pay and buy one. An inadvertent souvenir, you think to yourself.
So, after spending an hour, it is now time to move and descend from the other end. Mid-way in-between you see a stunning waterfall located up the mountains amidst tall deodhar/pine trees cover.
The serene environment with the Himalayas in the backdrop is so meditative that you can possibly sit hours together appreciating its pristine, idyllic beauty.
After reaching back, it was time now to visit another extremely fabled tourist spot reputed for its captivating beauty and snow-capped mountains. It is called Chandanwadi.
Located 15 Kms north-east of Pahalgam, one can reach Chandanwadi either by mini-bus, pony, jeep or taxi or even can one trek. On request, the pony owner helps in arranging for the local taxi. Finally. thanking the pony owner you sit in this taxi, and are off to Chandanwadi.
A scenic road drive passing by the banks of the meandering Lidder River and through the lush green conifers with occasional patches of rocks ensues. It takes an enticing 30 minutes to reach here.
This rocky and verdant Mountain Valley’s main attraction is first to climb up the Glaciers and then slide down the Snow Sledging.
After paying Rs 300 for Snow coat and boots, you then walk up the glaciers with the help of wooded stick/s. However, on the way back, you prefer to slide down on the sledge.
PS : Sledge owner may ask you to pay Rs 500/- for using his sledge. But you can Bargain for a lower price. Rs 200/- seems reasonable and he agrees.
As you return, it’s time now for a hot Cuppa of Coffee. Couple of restaurants at the foothill beside the banks of the burbling Lidder River offer you place and ambiance to enjoy your snacks/coffee in tranquility.
Even as Lidder continues flows nonchalantly, unmindful of the numerous adulatory eyes staring at it, you look at your watch and realize: Oh!! It’s time to return back to your Hotel, in Pahalgam.
On the way back is the beautiful Betab Valley. Its late, so you decide to watch it from a distance.
Next Morning Adil returns to drive you towards your next destination – The city of Flowers, the beautiful ‘Gulmarg’.
As you leave Pahalgam, looking back you are compelled to conclude: “If Kashmir is the Paradise on this earth, Pahalgam is surely its Centre”.
Anonymous
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AMARJEET
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its too just stunning for words. i think the more people travel to Kashmir- the lesser it will be looked at as dangerous place. hope to travel soon.
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Kashmir is a Heaven A Paradise where Beauty Prevails in Every thing.
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