From Srinagar to Pahalgam to Sonmarg to Leh to Nubra Valley to Pangong and back to Leh for final two days stay marks the end of this captivating tour of Kashmir & Ladakh. The sublime serenity of Leh-Ladakh is surreal and almost indescribable. A place where you can sense serenity among striking Monasteries.
After a memorable short stay in Pangong, Jimmy drives you back in his Innova passing through treacherous terrain and steep strenuous climbs over lose mud and slush. at least in the initial 125 Kms drive. (Total distance between Pangong and Leh is 240 Kms.) By 10.30 you reach the exotic Chang La Pass situated at 17950 feet above sea level; the third highest motorable road on this planet.
Visiting the colorful Buddhist Monasteries (also called ‘Gompa’) along the way, you first stop at the 600 years old Thiksey Monastery. Here you see an impressive 49 ft tall Maitreya Buddha temple belonging to the Yellow Hat sect of Buddhism. Thiksey Monastery is noted for its resemblance to the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. ( Notably, Potala Palace in Tibet was the residence of the Dalai Lamas till the 14th Dalai Lama, after Tibet uprising, took asylum in India in 1959)
Buddha at Thiskey
The final halt is at Shey Palace, a 16th century summer palace of Lehs royal family that has an amazing three storied high copper gilded statue of Lord Buddha built in it.
After that, Jimmy drives straight into the beautiful “Leh Palace Hotel” in Leh. It is 6 PM bythe time you check-in here. Next morning, exploration of the beautiful city of “Leh” was on the itinerary.
The following Day : At sharp 8 in the morning, driver Ali reports at the Hotel with his Innova.
Soon, passing through the famous Leh Bazar, Ali takes you to visit was the historic Sikh Gurudwara, Shri Pathar Saheb. Built in 1517 in the memory of Guru Nanak Dev JI, this Holy shrine is now looked after by the Indian Army.
Cover your head, remove your shoes before you enter this Gurudwara. In here, you see the Holy Granth Saheb placed right in front where you can pay your obeisance. After this, as you come down a few steps from behind, you see a huge stone (Pathar) with shape of a body carved on it.
As the legend goes, this happened when Shri Guru Nanak Dev ji, had visited Ladakh and stopped one huge boulder by his body that was thrown at him by the demon staying here during those times. This Gurudwara is also revered by the local Buddhist who venerate Guru Nanak Dev ji as Guru Gompak Maharaj or even as Nanak Lama. So, after paying your respect, as you move out, there is small Hall where langar of Tea and Snacks is served to each visitor.
Leaving the Gurudwara, a few Kms ahead, we pass through the Magnetic Hills, believed to defy earth’s gravity. Further from there is a place where confluence of two great Rivers, Zanskar and Indus is taking place. This place is also called Sangam or Union.
Moving still further, Ali takes turn away from the main road and crosses to the other side of the river. From a narrow road passing through Alchi Village, you reach the Alchi Monastery (also known as Alchi Choskor Monastery). Walking through a small path lined up with stalls, you see villagers sell artifacts. Little ahead is three square and rectangular structures with flat roofs. This is Alchi Monastery.
Within the shrine you see enshrined elaborate murals and the stucco images ascribable to period between 11th to 13th centuries A.D. An unmistakable reflection of some exceptional quality Buddhist art and architecture.
At one place you see around fifty Buddhist Monks seated on the floor around a long bench, in their familiar orange attire, chanting Buddhist Mantras. The sound and its vibrations are so intense and meditative that you would not like to leave. Almost in trance you sit there till the riveting recitations and rituals are finally over.
The restaurant within the premises provides vegetarian food to its visitors. After having a quick bite you now depart towards yet another famous Monastery called the Likir Monastery.
From Likir Monastery, Ali drives you back towards Sangam. This time he goes down right up to Sangam point where the noticeable confluence of muddy water of River Zanskar with bluish green waters of the Indus is visible. Ali advises to experience Rafting, a popular sport offered by “Indus Himalayan Explorers (IHM)” here.
The chart at IHM allows you to choose between three options:
a) TSOGESTE which is 6 Kms and takes 1hour 45 Minutes with price of Rs.700/-
b) SCHORPOCHEY which is 14 Kms and takes 2 Hours and costs of Rs. 1,100/-
c) CHILLING that is 26 Kms, takes 3 hours and costs Rs. 1500/-
TSOGESTE is recommended for Children and Seniors and CHILLING for professional Rafters. SCHORPOCHEY was thus the best option for you. After you pay, the organizers provide you with rafting gears like Suit, Helmet and Shoes and then expect you to reach at the starting point 14 Kms upstream, all by yourself.
On reaching there, you get a short orientation from the experts and thereafter along with a row you are made to sit in the rafting boat. Besides you, there are three other rafters (all females) in this boat plus the chief boatman. Interestingly, two of these three ladies claimed to have earlier experience in Rafting. And there you go for a lifetime experience of this sport.
There were two more rafting boats full with fun rafters. Just as the expedition begins, a strong wave comes from nowhere and nearly overturns all the three boats. There are screams all over. Luckily, no casualties.
Moving little further, the water begins to turn rapid and so do the heartbeats. The adrenaline rush is palpable. Soon, negotiating in these choppy waters gets more and more exciting. The challenge is thrilling.
After about 5 Kms the flow of water calms and so does the exhilaration. A few Km ahead, Sangam point is now in the vicinity. The boat stops little away from the shore and you step down, completely soaked, in the shallow waters of the river and walk slowly towards the shore.
Happy at the experience, you change to your own clothes and Ali drives you back to your Hotel with abiding memories of the day.
Visitors travelling on motorbikes are ubiquitous in Leh Ladakh. Some get their own bikes while others take them on hire. Renting bikes is a thriving business here. So you too decide to hire a bike and try. Wow !!! ……. Sounds cool……..
On request, Hotel reception dials a no and in no time a man with a bike reaches the hotel. It had been ages that you rode a two wheeler. With a bit of apprehension, you take charge of the bike that looked little old.
With helmet On, the first place to visit is the 11th Century Spituk Monastery located 10 Kms away from the Hotel. On reaching there, you park the bike and climb up towards the Monastery perched on a hill and overlooking the beautiful Indus River. Here you see some fine collection of exquisite antiques such as vintage masks and thankas (antiquated arms) exhibited here. However the main attraction is the amazing finger high image of Lord Buddha and Amitayus.
Around 2 Kms on the way back is the famous Museum called Hall of Fame or Leh’s War Gallery. This gallery is dedicated to the heroic sacrifices of the Indian Army and their remarkable fight against terrorism and infiltration.
With entry ticket of Rs 50/ per person plus camera fees of Rs. 100, you enter this museum.
As you walk past the amazing portraits and read the story behind every such image, you get the insight into an incredible life a soldier leads and the hardships Indian army faces to protect our borders. With a feeling of pride and admiration for these incredibly brave souls you leave the Museum.
It is 6 PM and there is at-least one more important place to visit. The Shanti-Stupa. This beautiful Stupa, a symbol of peace and prosperity, was built in 1991 by the Japanese and Ladakh Buddhists together to commemorate 2500 Years of Buddhism. So as you climb up on the tarred road, you pass from in front of the meditation hall that has a mesmerizing statue of Buddha in it. This statue is so captivating that you can keep staring at it endlessly. Another reason that attracts tourist to this place besides its religious significance is its spectacular location. From here, you get an astounding panoramic view of the beautiful landscape surrounded by mountains on one side and the city of Leh on the other. Moreover the Sunrise and Sunset view form here are legendary.
Suddenly it begins to drizzle. It’s time to leave. So you quickly start the bike and climb down the steep road very carefully. On reaching the Hotel, return the keys of the bike at the reception, have dinner, rewind the day’s experience and retire for the day.
Your mind cajoles you to stay longer and devour the mesmerizing magnificence of this place even more. But only if wishes were horses…..
Early next Morning Ali stands with his car to take you to the Airport. Back to Mumbai via Delhi and from there to Home Sweet Home. Thus ends an exceptionally thrilling trip to Kashmir and Leh-Ladakh.
Rashi
Awsome blog awsome pictures….
Prakash bal joshi
Very precise n informative
Anonymous
बढीया
Anonymous
Beautifully narrated and sensibly narrated. Nanak Lana. That was a revelation. Hats off.
Susan
Like to read your blogs to increase my knowledge about different places.. keep it up👍
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