After the gratifying assimilation of flora and fauna at Tarangire National Park, today, on the third day of your visit to Tanzania, you have reached the fabled Lake Ndutu. The world-famous forest at Lake Ndutu lies in the heart of the ‘southern part of Serengeti’ and Game drives here are reputed to be enthralling.
The morning breeze outside your cottage is cool and pleasant. You can literally feel its tender touch as you walk a few cottages up to the dining area for breakfast. In-here is a well laid banquet with myriad mouthwatering choices that include salami sandwich layered with cheese and mayonnaise. An irresistible offering that cannot satisfy you with just one. So you have more than one without inhibition.
Later holding a cup of coffee and the camera hung securely over your shoulder, you hurry towards the jeep parked outside the main gate to commence the days safari.
On the way however a bunch of sweet small sized yellow-black colored birds called ‘lesser masked weavers’ attract your attention. You stop watching these agile cute avian hop incessantly around their untidy spherical nests that’s built from dry grass.
These nests have considerable narrow entrances and some of them are so close that you can in-fact stretch a bit and fondle them with your hands.
Now the coffee cup that is nearly empty and is quickly dropped in the nearest bin. Capturing their images then assumes priority.
Once boarding the Jeep, along the way a bird with distinct bare head and neck, akin to an aging uncle, named Marabou Stork is sighted. With its unmistakable black back, huge beak, white underparts and shiny white legs, it has perched itself aver a tree branch contrasting with pure blue sky behind it.
A Male African Hoopoe follows soon. With its long narrow black bill, colorful plumage and a distinct crown of feathers it looks as if some price from an extinct ethnic tribe has reincarnated himself in this form. Few interesting clicks and you move.
Marabou Stork
Male African Hoopoe
By the way, Lake Ndutu consists of vast grasslands with water holes at places. So, meandering through the demarcated tracks you reach this significantly vast area, incidentally is not without portions of marshy land.
Unfortunately, the routine way to enter here is soaked with water creating a long watery blotch. It would therefore be imprudent to act sanguine and attempt to cross! Not surprisingly, a dozen other vehicles too have stopped for similar fears.
Sadly, one ambitious driver among them who dared to cross finds himself badly jammed in the middle of the sodden mud.
One praise-worthy practice here is that if any one vehicle gets stuck as such, the drivers of other vehicles stop and help the ill-fated. So with the cooperation of others this one is now out and is all smiles. Ready once again to drive his guests for the safari.
Kimando, who is your driver cum guide, now along with others are in search of an alternate way. So, after driving of couple of kilometers, a patch is located where crossing could be relatively safe.
So while your heart pounds hard and fast, adroit Kimando manages somehow to ferry you over to the other side. Relieved, you sit back thanking your stars now.
Little away, a cluster of jeeps parked together arouse your curiosity. An plausible sign of something interesting happening out there. And you are not wrong.
Voila!!! Moment you reach there, you are delighted to find a mother Cheetah along with her two adorable young cubs squatting in the vicinity.
This lean and lanky cat with tan colored fur has solid black round spots all over its body. And as she turns to look in your direction, the fascinating black markings running down from the inside of her each eye to the corner of her mouth can be seen. OMG! you tell yourself. How artistic and captivating is this make-up nature has created over her face. (A major mark of difference between a Leopard and a Cheetah).
Your excitement is palpable. Happiness is visible. The broad smile on your face refuses to fade. Amidst euphoria, you hold to your emotions, pick your camera and with alacrity direct it towards her. Needless to say – clicks follow.
Suddenly she decides to get up. Stretches, yawns and then begins to walk, astonishingly, towards your jeep.
Aye! Hope she doesn’t come near and jump into your jeep. The excitement has abruptly metamorphosed into mild fear. However, remaining cautious, you keep your guard and don’t let your eyes off her.
But she is a good lady! She understands that you are here to take her home but only in pictures. And she has no qualms about it. So after a few elegant steps, pulling herself out of the grass, she settles on the plain ground just few feet away from you. Her inquisitive eyes nonetheless keeps watch on your actions amidst offering amazing poses.
Serendipitously, her cute little ones too have now extricated themselves from the grass and are visible in the open. Exuberance is now ratcheted since these round eared tiny beauties have willingly add themselves into the canvas.
So, just as you are engrossed capturing the Cheetah moments, a young Black -backed jackal sprints across with incredible speed, presumably attempting to escape the eye of the big cat. Its reddish-brown coat contrasting with the black saddle extending from its shoulders to the base of its tail is really impressive. However, within moments it’s out of your view.
Turning you head around, you discover a set of Giraffes with their fabled long necks walking slowly in the savannah nearby. Even as two males among them ‘neck’ one another apparently to establish their social hierarchy the third one is busy wooing a possible mate.
But will he succeed – you are not aware since they move away from your glare much before the anticipated act.
Then as you leave this area, around 4ft tall, elegant and impressive ‘Secretary Bird’ is seen displaying its definite attitude marching in the grassland. This terrestrial ‘bird of prey’ has a eagle like body and legs similar to that of a crane. Arguably the reason for its tall look.
Regretfully, its breed is on the decline – you are informed.
Next comes a well built ‘Common Steppe Buzzard’ . This too is a bird of prey having its main victims that are small mammals like rodents etc. So no sooner you get close, a few flaps and it’s well in the sky. No regrets nevertheless; you capture some amazing pictures of this one in flight.
Then the African White-Backed Vulture with its dark brown face and long white neck makes itself easy to be distinguish as you watch it sitting on a tree. Its remarkable wingspan can be appreciated the moment it takes to air. Luckily your camera stands by you unfailingly as you attempt to capture these fleeting movements.
Among myriad vulture inhabiting in this forest, ‘Ruppell’s Griffon Vulture’ is the one that has large long neck with featherless head and an impressive wingspan that spreads over 2 meters. This one with whitish-brown underbelly is literally racing along by flying right above your jeep for some time.
FYI : Ruppell’s Griffon Vulture is supposedly larger than its cousin, ‘white-backed vulture’ that was seen minutes ago.
Lake Ndutu
You have now reached near the picturesque Ndutu lake. This vast lake with azure blue calm waters is surrounded by huge savannah and alluring blur sky in the background. A picture perfect and delightful scenery indeed.
Though on the lake’s bank these appealing black-white patterned horny pair of Blacksmith Plover are in the process of increasing their tribe (picture suggests). So without interfering in their pleasurable moments, you decide to leave them to themselves.
Little away is the blackish-brown colored Long Crested Eagle with a noticeable shaggy crest over his head sitting comfortably over a tree. However, the moment he finds you get closer, he initially stares through his bright yellow owl like eyes, then screams, to or for who you don’t know, and then flies off flashing its spectacular white underwing coverts.
After you turn back, a delightful ‘rare’ Pygmy Falcon, presumably the tiniest of the falcons (around 19-20 cms in length), is seen relishing its prey held firmly between its claws and the tree branch.
Once through with his meal, this charming male raptor takes off to find another roost and in the process displaying his spectacular black-white spotted feathers.
As the sun is nearly over the top, this Green Wood Hoopoe, also known as ‘red-billed wood hoopoe’ is noticed perched on a dead tree. This breed of hoopoe is identified with its distinct thin curved red bill, conspicuous white ‘V’ shaped markings on its tail edges and glaring white patches present on its wings. (Seen in pics)
Lunch Break
Its 1 pm and time probably to replenish your consumed calories! Kimando hence halts under the shade of a massive tree and opens the food box taken from the lodge’s kitchen before leaving.
However, your priorities lie elsewhere. Your eyes rove to find something interesting around. So after a quick bite, you get back to what you are here for.
After you resume exploration, the first to come-in is this endearing Southern Red Bishop. Around 11cms in length – with its short tail, black bill and expressive eyes is blessed with striking bright orange and contrasting black plumage. A worthy candidate to be a part of your repertoire? Of course !! you tell yourself, and clicks follow.
Moving further, a pair of nondescript Namaqua Dove sitting on a branch unexpectedly decide to get passionate. The natural corollary to an aroused passion is – Mating.
Interestingly, during copulation, the Male’s fluttering wings reveal spectacular chestnut-colored feathers, otherwise visible only when in flight. Without hesitation you capture them in your camera.
Serendipitously, for the second time in a day this majestic Long Crested Eagle comes your way. This one is adroitly balancing itself over a tree branch with an distinct shaggy crest and an unmistakable all dark plumage. Moments later it takes off with a familiar sound displaying its wide asymmetrically but gorgeous feathers.
A bald headed Lappet Faced Vulture with a massive bill, also known as Nubian vulture has now positioned itself in-between twigs of a huge tree. After taking its primary pictures, you wait for a while for it to fly. And its not too long before it obliges. Incredible in-flight shots then ensue.
In the savannah is this male Somali Ostrich, a flightless bird, also known as blue-necked ostrich in process to relieve himself. A few seconds while the white urine flashes out from his posterior, you get time to record this motion.
After this he turn its long neck 180o presumably to look for his companion. Not finding her around, he proceeds all by himself, alone deep into the grassland.
Now as you move towards the west. there are myriad species of vultures hovering above in the sky. A sure indication of some raw meat around. So to know more, you drive in that direction. And its not before long that the carcass of a dead Zebra is seen lying in the field. An obvious attraction for these Vultures of-course.
However the vultures are not alone here, They have a formidable competitor. Its this Hyena trying to accomplish dual task: a) ripping and consuming portion of this dead animal’s body & b) scaring away the vultures just as they come close for their share.
Your presence presumably poses no hindrance in hyena’s bid to stuff his stomach. Although he raises his head momentarily to towards you but then carries on nonchalantly with his bloody meals.
The vultures however stay-put undeterred knowing well that there turn will come too. Plausibly following the law of jungle.
At one point you see him enter deep into the carcass and remove the internal organs of the dead animal. Blood is now seen splashed all overt his face the moment he pulls out.
Once satiated, he leaves with his blood soaked face for the Vultures to do the rest.
Now the road on which you are passing now is muddy, soft and sodden with water. Suddenly your jeep gets stuck in one of these awful patch. You are scared. Even more petrified when Kimando attempts to accelerate to extricate but jeep’s rare wheels rotate on the spot and dig themselves deeper into the mud.
You turn pale watching the problem get exacerbated. To make matters worst, there is no vehicle around for help even. Finally God alone knows how but by sheer luck Kimando manages to pull out the vehicle heaving a inexpressible sigh of relief.
So then meandering amidst the jungle you are now in for a really big, unexpected surprise. An incredibly astonishing and exciting encounter with …….
Voila, over a thick branch of a tree a adult Lioness with bright golden-yellow coat is sighted indulging in her afternoon siesta. You stop. Intermittently she wakes up, scans the area; watches her admirers watching her then closes her eyes and drops her head for another doze.
Moments later, she takes a big yawn and then gets up from where she is, probably to change her position.
Soon she finds another place that supposedly is more comfortable and settles. Still drowsy, she sits, shuts her eyes and is off for another sweet catnap.
With the help of your dslr, you studiously capture her moments that would certainly be memorabl
Subsequently, as you think to leave, serendipity stops you from doing so. Down below there’s another fully grown lioness who has just emerged from within the tall grass. She apparently looks to be pregnant. Nonetheless, after some preliminary inspection she does the tree-climbing up the same tree with astonishing precision.
After reaching the top, she walks around over a few branches, balancing herself with astuteness till she finds a secure place to relax.
On locating a secure place, not far from where the first lioness is, she sits offering some alluring poses, but in no time …..goes snoozing too.
Two beauties in their respective dreamlands.
Anticipating that these two are in for a long slumber, you finally decide to leave. Its evening, the sun has reached the horizon and is about to set. The lodge is but miles away. It is prudent therefore to quickly reach the place of your night stay before it gets too dark and probably perilous.
So by the time you are near the lodge, its nearly dark. The jeeps head-lights now have to be put on for better visibility.
Once at the lodge’s gate, you pick the camera along with other gears and walk up-to your cottage, marking the culmination of an exceptionally eventful day.
Now after unwinding for a while you then proceed towards the dinning hall to enjoy a few rum-coke mixed pegs.
A well laid buffet table around offers aroma that suggests some mouth-watering picks are waiting to be on your plate. Once satiated, you are once again back in your cottage and then on your bed reminiscing the day’s events before falling off to sleep.
Next day, after spending a few more hours exploring Ndutu, your are suppose to leave for another exceptionally famous and exciting place in Tanzania – Serengeti.
A few other birds and animals that come your way during the day include :
‘Laughing Dove’ with distinct rufous & black chequered neckless pattern over its neck.
Couple of ‘Yellow Billed Stork’ with short black tails and deep yellow bills
pair of multi-color Lilac Breasted Rollers are conspicuously perched atop a thorny acacia tree
Long necked white-pink colored Greater Flamingoes wading over calm waters of Lake Ndutu
Kittlitz’s Plover, a shorebird with black bill and black legs walking quietly near Lake Ndutu.
Chestnut Bellied Starling or rufous-bellied starling in flight.
Marico Sunbird with its typical sunbird beak and multi-colored radiant plumage.
Ruppell’s Griffon Vulture noticed guarding its nest.
Kirks Dik Dik, an unassuming small antelope that resembles a common deer back home
Pair of sturdy Banded Mongoose identified by their large heads, small ears, short, muscular limbs and a long tail
Scruffy-looking Hooded Vulture with its long thin bill and dark brown plumage
An unassuming but attractive Red Necked Spurfowl (a better version of an Indian ‘Murgi’ )
Sanjeev
Superb photography as usual.
S S Dutt
Incredible articulation! Felt I am there..
Jagdev Singh Bhatty
Great pictures
A. Guha
Superb as usual. I love the photos of the cheetahs and that of the buzzard.
Outstanding
Laxmi Taneja
Traveling through your blogs is a sheer joy and it brings back the life and gratitude towards Nature’s unexpected, abundant glorious and unexplored joys. Painstaking details of explicit locations of park lake, rare birds and adventure safaris are a delight. You open down minute details of sunrise to dawn with passion for traveling clearly visible and exploring the adventures of safaris.
cabinet-pfrf.ru
This beautifully designed tented lodge is situated in Ndutu in the southeastern Serengeti plains within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, a prime location for game drives and an ideal stopover to the neighboring Serengeti National Park. The lodge has 20 well appointed sleeping tents with a combination of Family Suites and individual Guest Tents offering a top- notch true African safari experience. Lake Ndutu Luxury Tented Lodge is built to blend into the natural environment dominated by acacia trees with a clear view of Lake Ndutu. All natural vegetation is preserved and the wildlife has a natural undisturbed stroll to the site. This is an eco-friendly lodge with solar power as the source of electricity, supported by two standby generators and invertors.
Narinder Singh
Too good! Incredible shots!!
Truly a nice experience travelling along with!!!